Chicago Magazine
Veteran chefs tell Jeff Ruby they'd prefer not knowing his identity, citing the anxiety a visit from a known critic can induce in the staff or claiming they treat everyone like a VIP. "Others believe anonymity is so crucial that publications should replace critics every five years," writes Ruby. "But that’s the old guard talking. The new guard says that game is over." || Earlier from critic Ruby: The downside of working as a food writer (eating basically nothing but burgers for 65 days).